Day 4: Pink city, Bhagalpuri silk narrate tale of trends

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A model walks the ramp in a creation by Jenjum and Jasleen. PHOTO: Asian Age

Even as Anna Hazare broke his fast on Saturday, the buzz at the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week was about struggling starlets taking the runway by storm on Day 4, at Pragati Maidan. Sonal Chauhan, better known for flop films like Jannat, wore a black number with a sheer back by designer Sadan Pande, who incorporated brocades and combined it with quilting to present a line that will be remembered more for the pretty face in the end. But that’s just the beginning of an eventful day, the young Jaipur-born designer Pallavi got the former model Mugdha Godse to wow the ramp in an aubergine floor-length draped gown. And Ms Godse has neither forgotten the Madhur Bhandarkar film Fashion nor her days in the green room painting her nails pink as a newcomer in the modelling industry.
Pallavi paid tribute to the architecture of the Pink city, with a line that was dripping with her love for her hometown, reflecting in the embroidered peacocks on the backs of dresses, jaalidar potlis, crinkled skirts, and the Hawa Mahal, sketched on body-fitting silhouettes. The surprise of the day was “Dozakh”, by Isha and Nitin, who presented beautifully tailored worsted wool dresses, twig motifs, knife-pleated high-waisted skirts, digitally printed graveyard dress and French knotted belts.
Playing safe is passé, it seems. Ready to experiment was the talented Alpana with partner Neeraj, who stepped out of their comfort zones with a line inspired by carpentry. Dresses with faux wood feel (made of vinyl sheets or leather which were first moulded, then bolted and converted into dresses) was a challenge for the duo. “It is meant for those who want to make a statement and are enthusiastic to try something unique,” said Alpana.
Signature looks form a part of your association with a designer and his creation, but somewhere down the line, if you lose that look, you are bound to be floundering in the sea of shiny sequins and this seemed to be the case with Jenjum and Jasleen of Koga. Known for their simplicity in design and minimalism, the duo took a 180-degree turn and courted shimmer like never before. It was a line that attempted to mirror India, which is known for its rich textiles and craftsmanship, but instead it reflected a line that would seduce a chic city woman who loved everything shimmering. “We have used Bhagalpuri silks and the idea was to mesmerise with lots of colours as that for us, is our country,” said Jenjum.
Every line must have a story to tell and designer Anand Bhushan did narrate a tale, by extensively using beads and the analogy of the “worm”. So you had “Death by fungus dress” and “Embroidered silkworm dress”, which were to tell you the truth just “fancy” names for embroidered rich black numbers that were both well thought of and executed.
Interestingly, it was back to the 40s for designer Atsu Sekhose, who used silk, wool and lace to create a line that sent models down in glamorous body-hugging sequinned dresses.
It’s always nice to end on a positive note, so it was nice to see Chanderi tops, Bagru yokes, Gajji jackets, dextrously done appliqué and ombre prints washing the catwalk with the real hues of India. Vikrant, Viral and Ashish of the label Virtues, were true to their roots and celebrated crafts to India, wish others would follow.