Flashes of fash genius on Day 4

[1]

“NOW WE’re talking!” is what one was tempted to say at the onset of Day 4 of the fashion fiesta, after three days of predictability. Right at the start, Kolkata-based designer Abhishek Byas set the tone of the day that was going to see some flashes of fashion genius. The fashion parade was flagged off by Abhishek’s “Never-the-less”, which reflected some strong influences of cubist art. “My designs are inspired by the Gotham jokers and the line tells the story of a clown’s life. The various stages of his life are expressed through the play of primary colours on georgette, cotton and chiffon,” said the designer. An ensemble of layers and unusual colour mixes that painted a kitsch imagery — the designs were a welcome change from the usual summery pastels. The innovative cuts incorporated in the bubble skirts, short dresses and pleated pants grabbed eyeballs and broke the clutter.
The energetic mood set by Abhishek was heightened by Sabah Khan’s “Tuk Tuk”, a line that smartly drew the line between rustic and urban. Inspired by the most taken-for-granted modes of daily transport — the humble autorickshaw — Sabah’s silhouettes were reminiscent of the signature yellow and black of Mumbai autos and the bright coloured insides of the vehicle. Patched panelled boleros, pre-stitched fabric blocked saris, shorts, shredded waistcoats and tie-up blouses, all in rickshaw prints and colours, the collection took kitsch fashion to a whole new level altogether. In spite of being rebellious, Sabah’s designs are very wearable and have the potential of becoming a favourite with the youth. Show-stopper Yuvika Chaudhary danced on the ramp to the beats of Tinku Jia in a wired lehenga and a racer back choli that said “keep distance”.
The energy tempered down a bit with Vaishali S.’ “Virus Free”, but not the creativity. The designer created a serene, almost ethereal imagery on the ramp, using transparency and geometric patterns in fluid silhouettes of halter tunics, tie-up dresses with frills and flap-collar tunics. The clever folds and multiple layers lend a futuristic touch to the outfits. Amalraj Sengupta played chess on the ramp with his black and white vision, that had some interesting pleats and exaggerated shoulders. “Bloom Bloom” by Purvi Doshi brought back the colours on the ramp in a good mix of cotton, georgette and mul mul. The feminine ruffles, pleats and hanging pockets with Aari and Khat embroidery made a distinct style statement. Sanjay Hingu’s male wear displayed embossed pants, skin tight jackets and zippered blouseons, while Kallol Dutta went on a vibrant route with quirky prints dominated by red backgrounds. Manish Malhotra, seated in the front row, gave appreciative nods to both shows. Anupama Dayal’s much-awaited colour splash lived up to its hype. Said to be inspired by a paints major, the ramp was a flood of bright colours in Bohemian, classic, retro, chic and ethnic looks crafted in tunics, drapes, bikinis, scarves, kaftans and maxis. The use of chanderi and batik prints made the silhouettes look playful and elegant at the same time.