Epicureans from all over Delhi when fed up of improvisations like Chinjabi, vegetarian momos and Chilli Paneer head to Majnu Ka Tila (MT) for authentic Cantonese and Tibetan food. Beyond the huge gates that lead to the Tibetan refugee colony lies a culinary haven no different from Gangtok or Leh.
As one walks through the gate on a nippy December day scenes like lamas strolling in their saffron robes, children frolicking around, elderly out in the sun, sitting on stairs of the monastery playing Tambola and hot plates of sumptuous food doing the rounds greets them. A pilgrimage for foodies, the colony has Hot Yak Café, Rinchen, Duke Hotel, Himalayan Hotel, Crane Hotel and numerous other warm and cosy eateries tucked in its confines. And the ambience at these places — walls tastefully decorated with murals, prayer flags and bamboo shoots and Tibetan songs playing in the background — creates a setting congenial for wolfing down dumplings and noodles.
MT is dotted with countless foodstalls; places that locals suggest have some of the most savoury dishes in their black-bottomed woks. In one of the alleys we found Yonzon, who was sautéing Jumba over his small stove, about which he said, “These are mutton sausages, only `50 for a plate. It’s very tasty, try one and you’ll ask for more.”
Right next to the main gate lies Hot Yak Café that serves momos, soups, noodles and Thukpa. Tenzing, the owner, talks about the must-haves at MT and his eatery. “Apart from Thenthuk and Thenpa (both noodle soups) little else here is authentic Tibetan. Most of the food items, including noodles and even momos, have a Chinese origin. Thenthuk soup isn’t very spicy and we use fresh spices like ginger, garlic, green chilli, soy sauce and some vanilla in it,” he adds. Although not very potent on the pepper scale, the thick hot soup he says is had by nomads to keep warm during winters in Tibet and Ladakh.