Everything feminine. Frills and flounce. Lace and layers. Ruffles and ruching. Feathers and frocks. The latest shows in London, New York and Milan are awash with these. As if unanimously rejecting the structured, masculine look of the 90’s business suits and strong shoulders, the designers have chosen a delicate and easy flow in their collections.
The fashionistas’ reaction against any kind of rigidity has been the embracing of the female form and celebrating the softer, more womanly characteristics.
Valentino has always made classics with ruffle, they may look ornate, even Victorian at first glance, but they have a young hip edge to them. His long red gown in chiffon with frills along the length has been etched in every woman’s mind as a desirable must-have. His lace has a lust factor which draws every woman like a magnet, irrespective of age, caste and creed.
Anne Fontaine has built a multi-million dollar business based on frills and fuss. Who could imagine wearing to work a high-necked Elizabethan blouse incorporated in shirt-style pre-Anne Fontaine. She has designed the ultimate day to evening pieces in an ultra feminine style. Fashion bloggers are describing Felicity Brown’s look as ‘delicious’, she has used head to toe ruffles in soft pink and French blue to creating a mesmerising effect. The raw edged floral cocktail dresses will fly off the store rails even before they arrive.
Christopher Kane’s catwalk collections had an overtly floral look and feel. Super feminine mint and lemon lace. Graphic print knee length skirts combined with neon stripes, a contrast of sorts but coordinated to achieve superlative impact.
Roksanda Ilincic opened her collection this season with a bubble gum pink flowy kaftan-type top. Her theme even in her decor was floral and the garments had a sense of nature.
Alberta Ferretti uses a palette of pale pink and cloudy ivory with frail embroidery to create the mermaid-set-afloat type feeling.
If anyone can make geometrics look feminine it is Holly Fulton. Slip dresses in a splash of colour highlighted with graphic geometrics. Aztec type prints in orange, turquoise and yellow create an optical illusion of dainty softness. It is almost an oxymoron, achieving a feminine effect with straight lines. Yes, but she does it. She is a designer who defines the theory that you have to use flowers to attain a girlie effect. An effeminate look is not necessarily created by the print alone, it can be done through form and cut. This is so powerfully demonstrated by Lanvin, Louis Vuitton, Bottega and Peter Pilotto. Think Scarlett Johansson. Irresistible.
The writer owns a
fashion brand based in Europe. She can be reached on info@amishi.eu [1]
Links:
[1] mailto:info@amishi.eu