Men’s Fashion Week Day 2: Linen, embroidery & masks

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It has been quite an eventful journey for designer Samant Chauhan from Bhagalpur to the blinding archlights of the capital, but the talented style guru hasn’t forgotten his roots in an industry that is dominated by frivolousness. Maybe that’s why his dream remains to give employment to the people of Bihar and set up a factory there that will give weavers work throughout the year.

In an urbanised world where most designers love lycra and taffeta, Samant has adopted hand-woven linen that was produced in his hometown. And maybe that’s why the aroma of Bihar was apparent in the way Samant showcased his line at the Men’s Fashion Week, at the Grand hotel.
Interesting hand embroidery on military jackets merged borders with bleached linen trousers and the leather effects made the garments new-age and cutting edge. The theme may have been dark and intense “Psychic Parade” going back in time to remember serial killers like Charles Manson, who had wiped out families, the presentation had a wide use of masks that will be showcased in a future exhibition. “A lot of research went into making these Hannibal-type masks. It was actually a project I had worked on when I was in college and it had stayed on in my mind, so I thought why not contemporarise it,” he said.
The other pleasant surprise of the evening was Goa-based debutante Troy Costa, who penchant for white and blue could be seen as an expression of his love for the sky and sea. He wowed everyone with his sharply tailored suits, pin tucked ivory white shirts, Prince of Wales check pants, dori work, mesh designs, asymmetrical pockets and pin striped faded denim, but it was the fabulous accessorisation that stood out. “Neon green and golden loafers were part of my love for detailing and obsession with perfection. I don’t want to be just limited to the country as my dream is to make it big internationally,” said Troy.
All his jackets were not lined and the linen was wafer thin and interestingly his denim bandhgala was raw washed (not enzyme washed so that it doesn’t pucker) giving it a beautiful symmetrical shape and fit.
In a day that was packed with designers who were inspired by a multitude of life’s complexities, business guru Shantanu Mehra who along with his stylist brother Nikhil decided to raise awareness against deforestation. Maybe that’s why “Death of a tree” was their theme, which saw deconstruction and vintage being presented with grey and chocolate to woo a man who is looking for something, experimental when he goes out in the evening. So Jodhpuris became shorter, the hues bolder and the patterns westernised, but the soul of the ensembles was Indian. And with a sharp mind that is focused on taking the brand forward, Shantanu said, “Men don’t indulge much in clothes, but they want to look good, and why not? The most looks conscious they can get is between the age of 20-30, so that’s our target customer.”