Simply Delhi-cious

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Come February 8 and the open space outside the emporium arena at Baba Kharak Singh Marg will be transformed into the bylanes of Old Delhi. The Delhi ke Pakwaan festival organised by Delhi tourism is here again to satiate our cravings.

Purani Dilli is a microcosm of our cultural diversity and this is reflective in the variety of food that is available in the area. “Delhi food has always been a mix of flavours brought in by people, who have migrated to the city. The original food of the city is the food from Shahjanabad, where the cuisine comprised mainly of food from three communities, namely Mughals, kayasthas and baniyas. The Mughals consumed korma, kebabs and ulte tawe ki roti. No garlic and onion was used in baniya households and a mixture of both was used by kayasthas,”explains Sudhir Sobti, chief manager, public relations, Delhi Tourism.
“Changhezi chicken is a slightly sour and mildly spiced dish prepared in tomato and curd based gravy. The recipe for this chicken is believed to have originated during the times of the fearsome 13th century Mongolian warrior, Genghis Khan. Folk-tales have it that Genghis Khan was very particular about food and apparently didn’t like his food very spicy. The recipe of this dish is a secret and patented with us,” says Nauman, owner, Changhezi Chicken, Daryaganj and Jama Masjid. Nauman will be serving the dish as part of the festival.
The bhalle papdi chaat has been an epitome of street food in the city. “I prepare the curd in the morning along with the sweet chutney or the saunt as well as the pudina chutney. The right balance of these is essential to create a proper chaat. In addition, the bhalla should be absolutely soft and fluffy in contrast to the crisp papdi,” says Ram Narresh, who would be associated with the festival for the second time.
Mughals have brought in a rich variety to the city cuisine. Daulat ki chaat is one dish, which traces its roots to the Mughal era. “The creamy milk is whisked through the night and the morning dew sets the resulting froth. With flavour of pistachios and saffron, the lingering taste is ultimate, yet the dessert is light on the stomach,” explains Jaspal Singh, a vendor who sells the dessert at Nai Sarak.
Another dessert that is popular with city dwellers is kulfi. “Many people use khoya to substitute full-cream milk. I have never done that. Milk is sacrosanct in a kulfi,” smiles Tilak Raj, who will be selling the yummy kulfi at the festival.

Daulat ki chaat
Ingredients
2 litres full cream milk, unboiled
2 1/4 cups cream
1 heaped tbsp cream of tartar
1 cup castor sugar
1 tbsp rosewater
2 tbsp chopped
pistachio nuts

Method:
Combine milk, cream and cream of tartar in a large bowl and refrigerate overnight.
Next morning stir in 4 tablespoons of castor sugar, rosewater and whisk using a rotary or electric beater at high speed.
Using a tea strainer collect the foam that forms and transfer to a large tray. Keep the tray tilted so that foam stays on one side; some milk will collect on the lower side.
When the tray is fairly full, spoon foam into clay saucers or teacups, sprinkling a little castor sugar between layers and on top
Pour the milk collected in the tray back in the bowl and continue collecting foam till all the milk is used up. The whole process will take upto 2.5 hours.
Sprinkle pistachio nuts on top of each bowl of foam and refrigerate.
Recipe courtesy: Jaspal Singh, vendor, Nai Sarak