Muted yet outspoken innovations

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Tassawuri — A vision of Love is not just a range of clothes but an eclectic mix of contemporary silhouettes.

Designed by Kirti Sinha, a postgraduate fashion des-ign student of the Pearl Academy of Fashion (PAF), the line portrays transparency, freedom and exclusivity, says the young designer. “The chikankari artisans of Lucknow assisted in interpreting the thought onto the garment by merging it with laser technology and Arabic motifs,” adds the winner of the Best Contemporary Ethnic Collection at the annual design show — Portfolio 2012.
The show, displayed the collections of graduating students ranging from women’s wear and kid’s wear to men’s wear and evening wear.
And even though the collections could be bracketed as wearable prêt, classy couture and conceptual avant garde, they were concisely presented thoughts that took inspiration from Urdu calligraphy to volcanic eruptions.
Kashika Taneja’s collection was done in four-and-a-half months flat. “It is dedicated to the woman of today who works, coo-ks and has a life of her own.” Not just the inspiration but also the variety of fabrics chosen — like leather and jute — and the stitches and finishes set each project apart from the others just in terms of sheer craftsmanship.
Apurva Agarwal, co-winner of the Best Design Collection, executed surface ornamentation for her range that was inspired by the tribals of India through tie-dye and 3D effects. “I have played with a variety of thick and thin yarn, felt, lace, layering, fluting and pleating. The final product depicts self-obsession and breaks all the rules — the way the banjaras do,” says this PG fashion design student.
While many students tried to break free, a few preferred to look inside. Ashish Dhaka, for instance turned to his village Meham, in the interiors of Haryana. “The line focuses on voluminous surface texturing of wool in the form of pompoms, heavy interlacing and loop lace. The ensembles have influences of urban and rural backgrounds,” says the winner of the Best Use of Traditional Skills sponsored by Ahujasons.
Swapnil Gupta created Trouble Tessellations, a collection integrating the vocabulary of maths and geometry with art through an organisation of forms. The range was tagged the Best Avant Garde Collection by the jury. The apparel had a black and white grid on felt paper and derived 3D structured silhouettes through geometry. “It makes the wearer a participant through understanding and interpreting the maze of illusions,” says Gupta.