Funky dhotis make a haute statement

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From the street markets to the ramp, the dhoti is riding a wave of popularity. The traditional garment’s modern and funky avatar made a splash on the ramp at the ongoing Lakme Fashion week where designer Masaba Gupta had actor Prateik flaunting printed dhoti pants.

The demand isn’t just local, but global too. Says designer Leena Singh, “Dhotis are smart, comfortable and unique. We do 80 to 90 per cent business (both international and national) because of this garment. There’s a huge demand for it in the Gulf and Europe. Men should pair dhotis with the right outfit to look trendy. Girls should overlap it as a skirt with side cowls.”
The dhoti makeovers vary according to the clientele. Says designer Raghavendra Rathore, “There are three kinds of customers. One is the experimental customer who has a sense of style, the second is a person who wants to wear it as a part of a ritual, and the third is the new customer who isn’t sure how it can be used. The third kind forms a major market for most designers. If you can come up with a look which is consistently well designed, then one gets many orders for a dhoti.”
He further adds that while putting the dhoti on the fashion platform, designers should try and tell a story with the garment. “Dhoti has to be presented in context with lifestyle. If Bollywood movies are more open to traditional silhouettes, it’ll give them a better global appeal. People should be shown contemporary versions of a dhoti than just a white dhoti.”
The modern versions of dhoti haven’t really taken away from the resplendence of the original. Ace designer Ritu Kumar avers, “I did it 20 years back — it was stitched in a way which gave it an elegant look. People should try the version where pleats are gathered in the front with a zip, and cowls are on the side. The contemporary twist is very India-centric so it hasn’t lost its traditional flavour.”
According to designer Nida Mahmood, dhoti is no longer a silhouette meant for the humble villager. She says, “As mini trends, the dhoti has been seen replacing the churidar with kurtas. Versions of the dhoti have been seen as pants teamed with tees giving it a very modern twist. A lot of fun prints and textures on the new version of the dhoti give it another funky twist. The silhouette has been beautifully revived in a very modern context keeping the comfort factor intact while adding a cool factor as well. Pick up your dhoti in cool prints and bright solid colours. With Holi round the corner, create an original multi-coloured print with Holi colours.”