Prague — the mere mention of the name conjures up an image of a classic land; a land of music, mystery, poetry, gothic buildings that cast enigmatic shadows separated by cobbled roads and if you listen carefully you might hear the violins too. Without Prague, there would be no Kafka, Neruda or a Mozart.

It’s a land known to create a world of possibilities for the inspired … Perhaps that’s why a lot was expected from new age designer duo Isha and Nitin Karthikeya’s Koffee with Kafka, Part II, on the final day of the Lakme Fashion Week, Summer/ Resort. With a title like that, it’s hard not to expect or imagine.
Nitin said, “Our collection is inspired from the time we spent in Prague while shooting for a film. We have tried to recreate the mystic and haunted feel of the city in our designs.”
But what we saw on the ramp was only a half baked story of inspiration.
The colour palette of sombre browns and beiges, with the occasional purples and reds was true to the multi-faceted Prague but the prints were not as exquisite as they should have been. Intricate baroque work on chiffon and silk was the leitmotif of this ultra feminine line of layered gowns, flowing midis, jumpsuits and cocktail dresses.
The gorgeous lace appliqués and the French knot craft were the surprising bits of an otherwise predictable affair.
Once again we were reminded of Sougat Paul’s finesse with surface detailing in his line “The Flyaway Kites”. His flapper dresses and gowns stuck to the resort wear theme, but then we have seen them before. Some of his colour combinations — like the mauve and light orange frocks — were sight for sore eyes. But the delicate geometric motifs were an elegant touch to a very wearable collection. Soon after it was crowd favourite Malini Agarwalla’s turn to dazzle the ramp with the tribal colours of Africa.
Typical African beadwork married with geometric embroidery came alive on handbags, belts and shoes.
The chunky chokers and pebbled neckpieces were a head turner. And her masterstroke of not one but six celeb showstoppers in the form of Vidya Malavade, Maria Goretti, Mini Mathur, Sharmila Khanna, Madhu Shah and Shaheen Abbas more than compensated for the lack of celeb showstoppers in other shows.
The post lunch slot remained a forgettable affair in spite of big names such as Archana Kochhar and Abhishek Dutta.
Although said to be inspired by the puppetry of Rajasthan, Archana’s Kathputhli Kathak had nearly no trace of the tribal artform, except for the fluorescent pink and green pompoms hanging from flowing gowns and A-line dresses.
The creations floated in one after another but “Rajasthan” was nowhere to be seen. Even the lissome Amrita Rao’s show stopping act couldn’t save the day for Archana. Amrita said at the post-show conference, “Archana understands that comfort rules when being costumed,” but comfort alone doesn’t a fashion pageant make.
But some names do live up to the hype and thank God for that. Jatin Varma’s Glisten shone like a rare diamond in a clutter of mediocrity. Nude colours, flowy cuts, light and clean fabrics with a tinge of sparkle topped off with mystical headgears with the violin rendition of November Rain in the background created a sensual evening on the ramp.
One couldn’t get enough of the paillette texturing on a few gowns and his impeccable blend of sheer and opaque.
Arpan’s Vohra’s Hourglass was as bold and unapologetic as the name promised. Rising hemlines and colour blocking schemes on body fitting dresses, pencil skirts and chiffon gowns brought back the flirty, free and sensual woman of the 60s. The first half of the day ended with feverish anticipation building around the sundown show of Rocky S and the grand finale by Rohit Bal.