Models display creations of Sidharta Aryan on Wednesday, the first day of the Lakme Fashion Week in Mumbai.

AFTER ROHIT Bal’s celeb-studded start to the Lakme Fashion Week at an offsite, the doors were open for the next-generation designers to take over, and as usual, they didn’t disappoint. Although the colour palette was slightly muted for the “festive” tag, played mostly in very basic shades of greys, blacks, browns and whites, the innovative cuts, patterns and stitches in each silhouette that walked the ramp made an impact. The eight designers included Farah Sanjana, Mohammed Javed Khan, Nikhil Thampi, Shashank and Prajwal, Teresa and Roger, Thinles and Nirajara, Urmi Ghosh and Siddharth Arya; all mentored by the talented Aki Narula. From unconventional men’s wear to grungy women’s ensembles, the presentation was a visual delight. Most of the silhouettes were marked by the kitsch post modern influences in the moods they set in. Urmi Ghosh’s “Maar and Moumone” , said to be inspired by the tragic love story of Pablo Picasso, walked the thin line between playful and sombre, with models strolling in slow motion, with drooped shoulders, draped in shades of grey, ivory brown and dusty green. The silhouettes sported quirky motifs of caged birds, cats, boots and tight rope walkers. Further adding to their appeal were the asymmetric cuts, colour blocking and piping technique coupled with a deft combination of checks, stripes and solids.
The emo mood was quickly overtaken by Siddharth Arya’s high voltage “Steam Punk” inspired by the cult punk movement of the 80s. High on garage punk fashion, the ramp saw dramatic silhouettes such as roller blade denims and a goth net dress with spokes jutting out — certainly not for the fainthearted. The other displays remained decidedly Western with loose long sweaters, denim Jodhpurs, long knit coats. The only ones to splash some colour on the ramp were the Canadian designer duo of Teresa and Roger with “Retarded Velvet”. Their use of the exotic Ghanaian batik and native American wild prints on eccentric dhoti style shorts and cigarette pants defied convention — true to the “gen next” tag.
Soon after, Archana Kochhar’s “Urban Yogini” flagged off the fashion week for established designers. The only new thing about her show was the absence of bling. “I was very nervous because this is my first prêt line and I was working without bling,” she said. The designer however played it safe with drapes, shirt dresses, tunics, lehengas and jumpsuits, offset by alphabet cut work boleros that added the much needed zing. Her show was signed off by Miss India International Ankita Shorey. Spotted on the front row were Archana’s crème clientele which included Celina Jaitely, Diana Hayden, Ayesha Takia sporting her creations.
Next up was Jatin Verma’s “Paparazzi” that set the sundown mood by doing a red carpet on the ramp. A combination of floor hugging evening gowns with detailed surface texture and edgy dresses flattering the female form drew many appreciative gasps from the front row. Payal Singhal carried on with her signature bling in her Umrao Jaan-meets-Lady Gaga ensemble. “I have tried to incorporate the richness of Indian courtesan costumes within a contemporary pop culture,” said the designer, who also launched her kids line on the ramp. Showstopper Shibani Dandekar looked stunning in a crystal embroidered lehenga drawing hearty applause from Karisma Kapur seated in the front row.
Reena Dhaka’s return to the ramp had to be heavily celeb endorsed and to do the needful were Poonam Dhil-lon, Rohit Bal, Meiyang Chang and Omi Vaidya among many others. Ree-na’s lineup was essentially Indian with plenty of handwork, muted silvers and shades of pink in ethnic silhouettes of kurtas, churidars, saris, swing shirts and skirts. The day was set to end with designer J.J. Valaya’s colourful synergy of fashion and photography in a festive trousseau collection.