Blend of traditional & modern on Day 3
At the third day of the Delhi Couture Week 2012 Anju Modi and Manish Arora, the designers for the day, told the story of an India that values its customs yet is so modern and futuristic. The contrast was highlighted by Modi’s ethnic designs and Manish’s Western cuts; the former’s love for textiles and the latter’s passion for invention.
However, both used natural fabrics to create those stunning ensembles. A seasoned couturier Modi, took the audience to a tour of Bengal — the river, boats and poetry by the Bard of Bengal. The collection titled “Devi” draws inspiration from Bengali literature and celebrates womanhood through the lives of powerful women like Parineeta, Charulata, Devi among others.
Nayanika opened the day in a voluminous black cashmere skirt with single-shoulder pallu-style drape and gold adornments. Soon more cashmere, muslin, crinkled cotton skirts layered with tussar and net insides followed. White, ivory, brown and black were extensively used to make red stand out. Red was used in various forms, shapes and shades. “Red is a prominent Bengali colour. I have mixed gold, red and charcoal black to create the effect,” informed Modi.
After a poetic break, the tussar blend bustiers, off-shoulder cholis made way for high-collared fitted jackets — confirming a colonial influence on the collection — angrakha-style bodices, brocade jackets all teamed with long kurtas, skirts and dupattas.
Indian motifs, embroidered peacocks and flowers adorned the hems, ghers and dupattas. A lot of emphasis was laid on layering and styling of garments.
Towards the closing of a marvellous showing, actor Madhuri Dixit recited a few lines by Tagore in prelude to her much-awaited runway debut. Madhuri walked like a coy bride, smiling all the way as Ekla Cholo Re in the background kept the ears engaged. She looked elegant in an embroidered ivory skirt and velvet bustier and a red muslin embellished dupatta. A thick vermilion line nestled in the parting of her hair that complemented her look.
Couture is detailed and personalised and Modi has once again proved that couture can be subtle, understated; that textiles can be sexy and exciting.
Recently back from his Parisian rendezvous, Manish was showcasing in India after a gap of three and a half years, so he did a retrospective of his collections shown at Paris Fashion Week over the past five years. He cleared that none of these was shown in India before. “It’s great to be showcasing in India. My show today is those who could not see my collections in Paris,” he said.
Each garment was carefully picked from the various themes Manish had worked on — India Pop, Warriors, Circus, Baroque, Circus, Magic, and others. A caged ramp with neon lights welcomed the models in futuristic neo-prints, graffiti designs, loads of shimmer and provocative prints. There were tunics, skirts, dresses, jackets with some making a high voltage kitschy statement.
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