Milind Soman in a khadi bamboo textile kurti with kalamkari stole

Australia Fashion Week founder Simon P. Lock believes that Indian designers are not doing enough to tap the country’s traditional textiles and crafts, which have always inspired the world.
He was quoted as saying, “There are many designers internationally who are making collections inspired by India; then why can’t an Indian designer do that? Indian designers are loved everywhere, but I think they are not motivated enough to use their own design aesthetics and this is a disappointment.”
So is it true that India’s rich heritage is being vastly ignored while trying to make a mark in the West? Designer Madhu Jain agrees with Lock’s statement about designers emulating the West rather than digging into their roots and says, “We always look to the West for inspiration, overlooking the fact that we have the richest textile in our country. American designer Elise Overland will be coming here to learn about Indian textiles from me while we ignore the treasure we have. There are international designers who come here for inspiration while we’re still focusing on LBDs, cocktail gowns. Sadly, it takes a foreigner to tell us where we’re going wrong.”
She adds, “We can’t compete with the West. While they are the masters of cuts, we’re the masters of textiles. There are just a handful of designers who’re trying to revive the past.”
Sunita Shankar is committed to support the craft sector. She believes, “It’s a herd mentality out there. We feel we should do exactly what sells and gives us the return. While outsiders are moving towards Indian crafts, we’re going further away. There’s more demand for trousseau wear here, everything has become event-oriented today. The market demand has shifted, even though there are takers for crafts. I have adopted a village in Kutch, Bengal and Madhya Pradesh, and we’re able to sustain them because we’re able to generate that kind of order. We need to spread awareness.”
So does it imply that we are taking our crafts and textiles for granted? Yes, believes Samant Chauhan, who says, “When we see India imprint by international designers, we wonder if we failed to recognise what we have. While we have designers such as Alexander McQueen who used to stay in Benaras for a month every year, and Jean Paul Gaultier who visited India twice a year, we’re still finding our ground. But still many young designers are developing Indian textiles and working on traditional designs.”
To this designer Nida Mahmood adds, “Today, there are many designers who believe in the Indian ethos. I am inspired by our street culture. I agree we’re not doing complete justice, but the industry is young and it will take time to make an impact.”
Deepika Govind, who recently showcased hand-woven South Indian checks with the hope of reviving it at the Lakme Fashion Week says, “I have a commitment as a designer, if I don’t bring my heritage on the ramp, through photo shoots and clothes, who will do it?”
She adds, “No offence to Western designs, but if you don’t use it with the Indian canvas, it doesn’t make sense to me. Our country is so rich and incredibly blessed, why are we afraid to showcase it? Why should I wear a Burberry check when our South Indian checks are no less? I am not leaving my culture and will not walk without it.”