As we herald the festive season in the capital, the cosmopolitan culture has stepped aside for traditional celebrations of regional festivals. On Monday, the Malayali population in the city is all set to welcome mythical King Mahabali to their homes with traditional Pookalam (floral rangoli) and feast on the Onam sadhya (meal).
“While a traditional Onam sadhya would boast of at least 24 items on banana leaves, in Kerala among the Nair community, there is the concept of a ‘naal sadhya’ (4 dish sadhya) for those who cannot manage such grandeur,” informs chef Arun Kumar from Zambar. The usual constituents of the sadhya include rasam, sambhar, avial, thoran, kalaan, olan, ulli theeyal, parippu curry, puli ingi, kootu curry, upperi, erissery, sharkara varatti, pappadam, pachadi, appam, kichadi, steamed rice, prathama and varieties of payasam.
Avial and thoran are the most popular dishes of a traditional Onam meal. “The use of fresh coconut paste along with green chillies and curry leaves (which are all ground together) gives avial its characteristic semi-thick gravy like consistency. The use of drumsticks lends it a distinct flavour. Whilst vegetable thoran, which is an assortment of vegetables like raw banana, white pumpkin, carrots, beans and green peas, is also a specialty in which the vegetables are stir fried with coconut, curry leaves and tamarind along with mustard seeds. In this dish, the vegetables retain their colour and crunchiness,” says chef Veena Arora, chef de cuisine at The Spice Route, The Imperial.
Celebrated over a period of ten days in Kerala, most households host the elaborate Onam sadhya on the tenth day for close family and friends. “Most of the dishes use fresh vegetables that are tempered with cumin seeds, red chilli and curry leaves, giving it a strong flavour. Even a simple parippu curry (dal) cooked with coconut, drizzled with ghee on top along with papadam tastes quite unique,” says K. Paramashivam, executive chef, Kaustubh. Ulli theeyal is another interesting dish in which shallots are cooked in spicy tamarind and tomato gravy.
“Even the sambhar in Kerala is slightly different. The Nairs prefer it slightly thicker than the watery Udipi version. Kalan bears semblance to the usual coconut chutney, except it has curd and cubes of yam. One kind of payasam is a must to end the meal. Either a rice and milk based one or one with rice flakes in a coconut milk-jaggery syrup is served,” adds chef Kumar.

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Pumpkin Erissery
Ingredients:
250 grams yellow pumpkin, skinned and cubed
1 ½ cups coconut, grated
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 or 2 green chillies
2 red chillies, broken
2 sprigs curry leaves
Method:
Grind 1 cup coconut with the cumin and green chillies to a smooth paste. Add as little water as possible. Keep aside.
Boil the skinned and cubed pumkin. Strain and keep aside.
Brown ½ cup coconut well, with no oil.In a pan heat one tablespoon of oil (coconut preferably).
Crackle the red chillies and curry leaves. Add the cooked pumpkin, stir well.
Add the coconut paste, salt to taste and simmer for a while.
Garnish with the browned coconut.

Recipe courtesy: Chef Arun Kumar, Zambar