If the predominantly green face of the Kathakali actor symbolises the culture of Kerala best, the image of a houseboat cruising along the backwaters represents the beauty of God’s Own Country.

Helping to transform what was essentially a vehicle of transportation for the villagers to a symbol of romantic beauty was a Malayalam film of the sixties called Nadi, which portrayed life along the backwaters of Kerala. The picturesque frames dotted with scenes of kettuvallams crisscrossing the lakes and lagoons not only became a hit but also opened a new chapter in tourism in the State.
“The kettuvallams or boats that were till then used mainly for transportation assumed a new avatar,” says Tomy Pulikattil, one of the pioneers of houseboat tourism in Kerala. “When we started off, the boat was lit by kerosene lamps and was mostly static as there was no engine,” adds Tomy.
Car batteries then came to be used for power and outboard engines took over from huge oars. But with the advent of generators, the boats grew larger and larger in size; some of Tomy’s 11 boats can even accomodate 150 people and are hired by corporates to hold conferences and training sessions.
Rows and rows of houseboats dot the entire expanse of the Vembanad lake in Alappuzha, once called the Venice of the East. This is the time of the year when tourists are descending in droves to enjoy the backwaters. “We are filled to the tee,” says V.C. Zachariah, partner of Lakes and Lagoons, the largest operator in Alappuzha as he greets Georgitta, a regular on his boat. An Italian who runs her own travel agency back home, she regularly brings tourists to Kerala just for the backwater experience and this time she is accompanied by many from Italy.
“There’s nothing to beat the picturesque sight of the lake with its palm-fringed banks,” she says. The 10 couples aboard a motor boat on their way to to the houseboats for an overnight stay are mesmerised by the serene surroundings. Ducklings swim past, small fish play hide and seek in the hyacinth filled waters while fishermen lie in wait with their nets, praying for a good catch of Karimeen (Pearlspot). Fresh provisions for the day are being loaded into the boat along with a case of beer and the sight warms the cockles of the tourists.
One of the boats grabs one’s attention with its sleek looks. A premium boat with a snazzy upper deck and a comfy single bedroom is clearly the star amongst the lot. Nicknamed the Honeymoon Boat and decked up with the latest in interior designing, this once played host to Brangelina.
Many of the boats now come with airconditioning, well-designed interiors, swimming pools and mini bars. Recently, a couple from Europe took their wedding vows on board witnessed by fifty members from their families. “Many a time, it’s after the guests leave that we come to know it was a celebrity visit,” says Deepu from Kottayam, who manages the boat along with crew members Paul and Manoj. If Paul is the Shrank (captain), Manoj is the expert cook and it’s his Kerala delicacies that steal the show more often than not.
One star who swears by the houseboat experience is actor Jayaram who fell in love with it during a film shoot in the backwaters. He became a partner of Rainbow Cruises that owns 21 high-end boats in Alappuzha so that he can entertain his guests. “I’ve gone on cruises in many parts of the world including Venice and Holland. But there is nothing to match the charm of the backwater cruise here,” he affirms.
Jayaram adds that the crew is given a crash course in foreign languages like Spanish, Italian and French so that they can handle the foreign guests.
One of his celebrity guests was Rahul Gandhi who enjoyed an overnight stay on the boat with a friend in April. Some of the other celebs to enjoy the tranquility of the serene waters were fashion designer Calvin Klein, Mick Jagger’s daughter Jade Jagger and Anthony Bourdain, the celebrity chef who flew down with his crew to shoot a cookery show for a travel channel. Regular visitors include filmstar Kamal Haasan, Aussie cricketer Mathew Hayden and music director llayaraja, who was inspired by the surroundings to create a few tunes.
“One of challenges facing the industry has been the economic recession which has seen many cancellations from European countries recently but a new market is emerging,” says Joji Mathew and Sijo, partners of Rainbow Cruises pointing to the number of Arabs coming in for the kettuvallam experience. They charge `14,000 for an overnight stay in one of their boats.
The Xmas season is one time when they get up to 40 arrivals a day. A mini Pooram (a temple festival) is one of the highlights of Rainbow Cruises’ brand of hospitality but the elaborate menu consisting of delicacies like grilled Pearlspot and an array of sea food is the main attraction.
A personal touch is what makes it a memorable experience, according to Bindu Baiju who runs Kumarakom Castle, a houseboat that played host to President Pratibha Patel and Bollywood beauty Raveena Tandon.
The vallams that compete with each other in style and beauty also point to the craftsmanship of the people of Chenganda, a village nearby. There are experts who make the hull and the canopy of the boat, says Sijo, who runs Marvel Cruises in Alappuzha. “Maintenance of the boats accounts for a huge chunk of their operating costs and the houseboat industry provides jobs to around one lakh villagers in the surrounding hamlets,” he adds.
The competitive market continues to see innovations. “We have boats exclusively for ladies that are managed by ladies as well,” says Tomy Pulikattil as he gears up for the Xmas season, a time when his boats sparkle with illuminations and the prices go up by 25 percent. Bookings for New Year’s eve party is full, says the entrepreneur who has arranged a DJ night and fireworks aboard his sailing beauties.